Hints for the rookie pilgrim & visitor!

*Crowd outside Vatican museum late Saturday afternoon.*

Rome is fabulous — apart from all the bloody tourists! There are ~8 million visitors annually and the crowds in late October, early November were still massive.

Here is a collection of random observations for a successful visit / pilgrimage to Rome. Some issues have been covered:

Tips on attending the Wednesday General Papal Audience: Click HERE!
Tips on attending the Sunday Papal Angelus at noon: Click HERE!
Finding a Sunday Mass in English: Click HERE!
Information on Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel: Click HERE!

HINT: when in Rome, do as the Romans do!

LANGUAGE & GREETINGS

Locals bend over backwards to make visitors welcome.

Many working in hospitality have several working languages so they automatically default to the visitor’s tongue. English is commonly spoken as it is the most common language around the world and shamefully, English-speaking people are often uni-lingual. Italians seem remarkably tolerant of beginners mauling their native language. (For example, rolled R’s are difficult for native English-speakers!)

HINT: try to speak some Italian. There are many great on-line resources.

HINT: “Ciao” is informal and seems to be used by people who are familiar with one another. It may be wise to stick to a more formal, respectful salutation.

HINT: most establishments expect a greeting on entering and a farewell when leaving!

ACCOMMODATION

HINT: staying in a religious house is cost-effective…and allows for a longer visit!

Many religious houses have opened their doors to pilgrims and tourists. This is likely due to diminishing numbers, but it is also a great way to fund their operations.

I stayed at Casa Per Ferie Beata Madre Margherita Caiani run by the Minime del Sacro Cuore (Minimum Sisters of the Sacred Heart) founded by Mother Maria Margherita. The house is 1 km from the Vatican & provided exceptional value.

*The chapel in Casa Per Ferie Beata Madre Margherita Caiani*

The house is very clean, safe & quiet and provides basic accommodation in central Rome. I had a large single room with a private bathroom, shower and bidet! (ps: be warned that even at night some Roman drivers…ahh, “express themselves” through their car horn!)

A real plus is that visitors are welcome to join the Sisters in the chapel for daily morning mass. The Sisters are very welcoming but know virtually no English (English-speaking staff come in daily.) Suara/Sister Tiziana’s smile and happy greetings made my day!

I loved the good value in the house, the location and local restaurants so will happily stay there again—hopefully the feeling is mutual! This time I booked through [monasterystays.com] which has access to many religious houses but one can book directly through the Casa per Ferie webpage: [www.casaperferiemargherita.it]

Booking through Monastery Stays is a bit slow as each house reviews the application first! You must pay once approved. I suspect that many houses give priority to pilgrims or visitors with some component of a religious visit, such as attending a Papal audience.

HINT: Maybe let the house know your reason for visiting Rome, when applying!

FOOD

The Italian approach to food is…different!

In many ways it is much more civilized, but can be inconvenient for tourists on a tight schedule. Restaurants stick to their way of preparing food, which can be strange for those who frequent fast-food outlets!

HINT: unless you have a specific allergy or dietary restriction (vegetarian, etc.) do NOT ask for changes to the menu.

A “Bar” is a breakfast place where locals typically stand at the counter (‘the Bar’) for a quick expresso and a cornetto—a croissant of sorts. Curiously, this is quite social, but also quite fast. It is the one time where Italians do not dally. Sitting inside (al dentro) is a bit more expensive and sitting outside (al fuori) costs more again.

HINT: ask for “a coffee” and you’ll get an expresso!

Expect breakfast to be a coffee with a cornetto—only very touristy places have more.

One can get an alternative to the expresso, such as an Americano (double water) or a Cappuchino.

Note that Cappuchino is consider to be for breakfast only, so do not even THINK of ordering one past 11-ish (and…gasp! Never, ever after dinner!)

I saw no filter coffee and there is no such thing as free refills! Cornettos are slightly sweet (“sempliche” or simple) or filled with Nutella, cream, lemon custard or chocolate chip.

Breakfast for those staying in Casa per Ferie is across the road at a 24-hour eatery called Caffetterie Gracchi. They had great food and I also visited them…lots! (ps: they expect visitors from the House to sit!)

Lunch starts between Noon-12:30 hrs and goes till ~14:30 to 15:00-ish. Dinner in many places starts at 19:00 hrs. Where ever you go, you may have to wait for a table. Once seated that is your table and you will not be hassled to finish.

I suggest getting off the main tourist roads and piazza to eat. You can find great places just a couple of blocks off the usual track. Be warned about eateries with pictures of food outside—or worse, meals under saran-wrap! (Just…NOPE!)

A menu generally has appetizers (“Antipasti”); a first course (“Primo”: often pasta); second course (“Secondo”: typically meat, fish etc) and dessert (“Dolche”). Remember that vegetables (“Contorni”) are usually ordered separately with the Secondo as few main dishes come with potato or vegetables.

HINT: you are not expected to order every course! (Most places have good servings.)

Many restaurants give tourists a menu in their own language. I’ve heard of places with higher prices in the translated menu, but never came across this myself. (In the tourist traps?)

HINT: Do not share pizza—this is considered to be a personal food item!

HINT: Italian pizza is nothing like North American ‘take-out” pizza!

I found a great pizza place—Gino Sorbillo’s—just one block south of the house and their Pizza Capricciosa is to die for!! (But artichoke heart and prosciutto may not be for everyone!)

HINT: Do not put cheese on fish dishes.

HINT: tipping is not expected as waiting table is a trade and restaurants have an ‘all-in' price.

HINT: If you want to get out alive, NEVER put ketchup on a properly-cooked dish!

Restaurants (“Ristorante”) tend to be higher levels of service and have higher prices, though some also give smaller portions! Curiously, the worst meal I had was in a “Ristorante” with fancy place settings and prices. Guess where I never ate again!

Trattoria often have good food, with a good range of choice and average prices. Or consider an Osteria which are often family-run and provide solid, ‘home-cooked’ food. Some have fewer menu choices.

HINT: frequent the places you like and develop a rapport with the staff!

I returned often to the places near the religious house. I frequented the Al Balestrari in Prati which has great food at reasonable prices. (I even tried the traditional dish of tripe…surprisingly tasty!) They are usually packed, but always seemed to squeeze in just one more!

*Al Balestrari in Prati was a regular spot!*

DRINKS WITH MEALS

With lunch and dinner you will be asked if you want water: it is always bottled water which you pay for. The choice is still-water (Naturale) or effervescent.

Italians often drink alcohol with lunch and dinner, but only in moderation: few taking more than two glasses of wine. In the two weeks I always ordered house wine and never got plonk! (BTW: Romans do not like drunk tourists.)

HINT: drink beer or water with pizza. (Not wine!)

HINT: NO fruity drinks with dinner!

WATER: out & about!

Around Rome there are many water fountains providing FREE drinking water. You can drink straight from the spout or refill a water bottle. (Some look like a fire-hydrant. Just plug the spout with a finger and the water shoots out from the small hole at the bend to make drinking easier.)

THE SCHOLARS LOUNGE: the Irish Pub!

Is it bad to be the first customer of the day?!

Okay, Okay! My excuse is that I was hot, sweaty and hungry after doing the “tourist thing” for a whole bloody morning, when I fortuitously happened upon the Scholar’s Lounge.

Their Guinness—and the Guinness stew—really, really, hit the spot!

*(Hey, SCHOLARS LOUNGE! How about a free pint on my next trip?!)*

TOURIST SITES

HINT: Book ahead!!

There are large line-ups for some sites to buy tickets the day of admission, but most work on pre-purchased ticketing—especially for the special tours. Each has a different booking structure, so read the requirements!

Catholics should not miss St. Peter’s Basilica. It was curious how many Muslims visit the Basilica (Perhaps ‘eyeing it up’ like Hagia Sophia??) Consider attending one of the nine daily masses or say the Rosary in the curtained-off chapel where there is Exposition throughout the day.

My visit to the Trevi & Navona fountains was disappointing: maintenance & preservation is happening at both sites and is likely to take a while.

The Parthenon is a stunning building, but I was disgusted by the lack of respect from the madding crowd in this active church.

HINT: the voucher for the Parthenon is not your ticket! You must find the the ticket-office some streets away to redeem your entrance ticket. (God knows why…) Also the free audio-guide in the Parthenon was not available during my visit as there was no-one manning the desk.

The tour of the underground levels and arena in the Colosseum has been available for only the past 9 years. Booking even one ticket was an arduous process, but well worthwhile!

The Roman Forum has an immense history: consider a guided tour.

The Galleria Borghese has a stunning collection especially of Carravagio paintings and Bernini sculptures. The gallery resides inside the Borghese Gardens, the third largest park in Rome which merits a visit of itself and has free entrance.

TOILETS / WASHROOMS

There are only a few public toilets in Rome (at a small cost) but most often you can make use of the facilities in the museums, eateries or pub for free! Many have no toilet seat (don’t ask!) and a foot flush. If you see not a handle, look down.

CHURCHES

Spit and you’ll hit a church in Rome—there are over 900!

Most churches are active places of worship and many celebrate Mass daily…in Italian! For a Sunday Mass in English please read the article linked above. During the week I preferred the peace in the chapel at Casa per Ferie Beata Madre Margherita Caiani with the Sisters.

CLOTHING

Local Romans are often very well presented when out and about. Most places tolerate tourists in shorts, hats and skimpy clothes but remember that religious sites have a dress-code. (Covered shoulders & knees: uncovered head for men.) Dressing in long pants and a dress shirt in the evening might help you find that table in a restaurant.

HINT: bring a small umbrella and “layer” on cooler days.

HINT: use good walking-shoes (and walking poles if you have joint issues.)

MISCELLANEOUS

My Visa credit-card worked everywhere in Rome, though sometimes requiring insertion & PIN to be authorized. I suggest having enough Euro in cash to cover the meal or a taxi.

HINT: you cannot “hail” a taxi on the street! They can be found at taxi-ranks, or are called.

HINT: taxi’s to and from the airport to Rome have a set rate. (**IF going within the Aurelian walls.) Always check their rates.

There are ugly recycling and garbage collection sites on many corners and there was quite a bit of graffiti on the city buildings. There are some homeless in tents, but less than expected.

The beggars I came across were civil, and one was overjoyed at receiving a couple of Euro. I made a friend that day!

SAFETY

Crossing the road in Rome is an…experience!

HINT: Maybe rookies should follow a local till getting the hang of crossing the road in Rome!

At the cross walk / zebra crossing, Roman drivers seem to expect pedestrians to walk with confidence and at a regular, predictable pace. If you are going to cross, do so with certainty BUT keep a swivel head and use common sense. Rome has a lot of road accidents for a reason.

I found the city centre to be safe, but I do take precautions. I use an strong, zippered over-the-shoulder bag and have nothing sticking out of my pockets. Walk with purpose and keep situational awareness. If possible stay in a group. Use accredited transportation, especially when out late night. This trip, I bought a ‘burner’ phone with an eSIM to use around Rome. (If nicked it would be a minor loss.) The eSIM from Orange was great: access to Google Maps is a must.

HINT: Do not flash wads of cash! (or expensive jewelry, etc.)

WAS HE A CON MAN?

When crossing a bridge midday on a November bank-holiday, an older well-dressed man pulled in behind me looking for directions to the Vatican. (Er…no Google Map in Rome??) He claimed to work for Ferrari and he waved a paper map at me. Curiously that road led straight to the Holy City.

After asking where I came from, he claimed to be married to a Canadian! What a coincidence!! Then I got his sob story. He had forgotten his wedding anniversary and his wife was back in the room crying her eyes out. So sad! He claimed that no shop on the bank holiday would take his one American Express card for flowers or a gift for her. He first wanted to ‘gift me’ a box with a Ferrari watch, Ferrari cuff links and other men’s accessories for being kind…but quickly changed to asking for a cash exchange so he could shop for a gift for his wife! Right!

Needless to say, I have neither a Ferrari watch nor Ferrari cuff links!

TAKE YOUR TIME!
Staying in a place which does not cost a small fortune means you can plan a couple of quiet days to recover from jet-lag especially when traveling from afar.

When visiting Rome, pace yourself. Enjoy the food. Enjoy the people!

Rome is fabulous.

Kevin Hay

A Potpourri for Visitors to Rome

Hints for the rookie pilgrim & visitor!

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